The first step is to measure the inner diameter of the bearing casing with a vernier caliper, for example, 55MM.
In the second step, a piece of iron plate with a width of about 20 mm and a thickness of about 5 mm and a length of about 60 mm is sawn.
The third step is to punch a central pit in the center of the iron plate.
In the fourth step, the center hole is taken as the center, and a circle with a diameter of 58 mm is planned with a circle.
In the fifth step, on the grinder, the excess part other than the original arc is trimmed according to the original arc.
In the sixth step, the iron plate is bent with a hammer (note that the camber is even) and the length of the iron plate after the hammer is bent is measured with a vernier caliper so that the size is 55.5 mm.
In the seventh step, a hole is drilled with a 5 mm drill bit on the center pit. And use M6 tap buckle.
In the eighth step, find a buttoned M6 long screw and screw it in from the concave surface of the iron bar (just out of the head)
In the ninth step, press the convex surface into the ball groove of the outer ring of the bearing in the direction of the "dead end".
In the tenth step, rotate the long screws in the direction of tightening. At this time, the bearing shell in the "dead end" may come out!
The eleventh step, if it is not good, take a magnet to suck, and will also suck out the jacket!
The twelfth step, no, if not, it means that the bearing is completely scrapped.
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