SKF bearing identification method

1. Can I provide the original quality assurance certificate?

2. The color of the package is light green, and the anti-counterfeit label has a fixed format. Just provide the number on the label to SKF.

3. The wooden box packaging must be original, can not be disassembled, the box is fumigation by customs, the box is tidy and neat, and the eight corners of the iron will not be handed.

4. The rust prevention inside the bearing bag is colorless and odorless, and there are impurities and irritating taste.

5. Paper-wrapped bearings are burned with a lighter when unpacking, and are easier to tear. Because the imported glue is very different from the domestic glue.

6. Open the package to see the mark on the inner and outer rings of the bearing. The English letters have a specific meaning. Some of the domestic ones are enriched with sulfuric acid.

7. Inspection of steel, SKF materials are produced by SKF professional steel mills, special

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Detailed explanation of the bearing removal method for the loose frame

When the bearing retainer falls apart, the balls will converge to one side. When unpacking and replacing, the inner sleeve and outer sleeve of the NSK bearing are not integrated.

The first step is to measure the inner diameter of the bearing casing with a vernier caliper, for example, 55MM.

In the second step, a piece of iron plate with a width of about 20 mm and a thickness of about 5 mm and a length of about 60 mm is sawn.

The third step is to punch a central pit in the center of the iron plate.

In the fourth step, the center hole is taken as the center, and a circle with a diameter of 58 mm is planned with a circle.

In the fifth step, on the grinder, the excess part other than the original arc is trimmed according to the original arc.

In the sixth step, the iron plate is bent with a hammer (note that the camber is even) and the length of the iron plate after the hammer is bent is measured with a vernier caliper so that the size is 55.5 mm.

In the seventh step, a hole is drilled with a 5 mm drill bit on the center pit. And use M6 tap buckle.

In the eighth step, find a buttoned M6 long screw and screw it in from the concave surface of the iron bar (just out of the head)

In the ninth step, press the convex surface into the ball groove of the outer ring of the bearing in the direction of the "dead end".

In the tenth step, rotate the long screws in the direction of tightening. At this time, the bearing shell in the "dead end" may come out!

The eleventh step, if it is not good, take a magnet to suck, and will also suck out the jacket!

The twelfth step, no, if not, it means that the bearing is completely scrapped.

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